Review : Troiareuke Acsen UV Protector Essence SPF 50+/PA+++

Product Description
A multi functional essence that protects us from harmful UVs and environmental pollutant but does not clog our pores, is not sticky and leaves no white cast- perfect under our makeup! In fact, it got so much healing ingredients that we won't feel guilty skipping our moisturiser.

Key Ingredients : 
Centella Asiatica : Calming, Anti-inflammatory and Antioxidant effect
D-Biotin ( Vitamin H ) : Improve the natural resistance of skin. Effective against wrinkles
Biosaccharide Gum-4 : Shield against pollution and UV rays

Troiareuke Acsen UV Protector Essence has been on my wishlist for awhile so when The Cult Culture reached out to me, to offer some products in return for an honest review, it was apt that I chose this product. The Cult Culture carries several popular products from Troiareuke which you can check out here and is an authorised Troiareuke distributor.

This is my first foray into the Kbeauty brand Troiareuke (pronounced troy-ARE-keh). With almost a decade in the skincare industry, Troiareuke (part of MK Universal) has made tremendous inroads not only within Asia but into the USA as well.  Used in over 5000 beauty spas in Korea, Troiareuke’s line of products is a preferred choice for professional aestheticians.

Troiareuke uses natural ingredients infused with the latest skincare technologies and cruelty-free processes that heal and transform skin from inside out, making it safe with sustainable results. It is a professional aesthetic skincare brand that aims to provide the perfect solution to your daily skin concerns.

Troiareuke ACSEN UV Protector Essence is a sunblock with skincare functions, where Acsen stands for ACne + SENsitive. It contains powerful botanical extracts to soothe and moisturise dry and sensitive skin. One of its key ingredients, Centella Asiatica, is rich in amino acids, beta carotene, fatty acids and phytochemicals where it provides skin regeneration and strengthening of the skin barrier. The light weight essence-like texture of this sunscreen is also perfect for oily and combination skin who desires a lighter product for protection.

Troiareuke Acsen UV Protector Essence is housed in a 50 ml tube which lasted me for about 2 months with daily usage. There is a subtle floral scent and a hint of stickiness which disappeared after awhile.

First Application

After Spreading ( to reflect the watery lightweight texture ) 

Despite containing SPF50 and PA+++, the texture is unbelievably lightweight with a subtle cooling sensation during application. There is no greasiness or white cast. All are winning points in my heart as it is always difficult for me to find a sunscreen with a non-oily and non-sticky texture that has high coverage but Troiareuke Acsen UV Protector Essence SPF 50+/PA+++ has surprisingly surpassed all my expectations.

Because of its non-sticky texture, I like to use it all over my face, neck, arms and hands. It goes on well alone or under make-up without any flakiness, cakiness or piling.

In terms of ingredients, do note that there are several sunscreen ingredients in the list. CosDNA has listed the following ingredients to protect against UVA ( for aging ) and UVB ( for burning ).

However, on the packaging, Troiareuke Acsen UV Protector Essence SPF 50+/PA+++ has listed the following as active sunscreen ingredients.

To further explain on what constitutes active and inactive ingredients, it largely depends if a certain ingredient makes a claim in treating a condition. You can read more about it on FDA for cosmetics.

Derived from Alana. 

To be fair, I will touch on all sunscreen ingredients listed in the list as there have always been controversial articles on sunscreen ingredients.

Active ingredients in sunscreens come in two forms, mineral and chemical filters. Each uses a different mechanism for protecting skin and maintaining stability in sunlight. The most common sunscreens on the market contain chemical filters. These products typically include a combination of two to six of the following active ingredients: oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate and octinoxate. Mineral sunscreens use zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. A handful of products combine zinc oxide with chemical filters.

Troiareuke Acsen UV Protector Essence SPF 50+/PA+++ is a chemical and physical sunscreen.

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7% :
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate ( also known as Octinoxate ) is an efficient UVB filter. It is an excellent, globally-recognized UVB filter and is suitable for water-resistant sun care cosmetics. This product is a good solvent for powder sunscreens and achieves high SPF when used with other UVB filters. It provides partial UVA protection and full UVB protection. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate also protects cosmetics and personal care products from deterioration caused by UV rays. 

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) conducted an OTC drug review of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and did approve it for use in OTC sunscreens up to a concentration of 7.5%. However, it has been said that Octinoxate is an endocrine disruptor that mimics estrogen and can disrupt thyroid function ( source ).

But according to skincare guru, Paula Begoun, Octinoxate has a solid record of safety (decades of research and thousands of studies establishing its safety in sunscreens as indisputable). There are no studies that demonstrate octinoxate, when and as used in SPF products, is harmful. In the sole studies cited when such claims are made, the conditions are completely inapplicable to how sunscreen ingredients are used in skincare products as such studies typically use extremely high concentrations of octinoxate (much higher than would ever be used in sunscreens) or even fed to lab animals.
In fact, the European Union’s permitted usage level for octinoxate in sunscreens is higher than the maximum amount permitted in the United States (7.5% in the United States, 10% in the EU).

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate receives an EWG hazard rating of 6.

Homosalate 3%: 
Homosalate is an effective oil soluble liquid UV-B absorber. It is an excellent solubilizer for crystalline UV absorbers such as Avobenzone or Ethylhexyl Triazone.
It is an organic compound that belongs to a class of chemicals called salicylates. Salicylates prevent direct skin exposure to the sun’s harmful rays by absorbing ultraviolet (UV) light. Homosalate specifically absorbs short-wave UVB rays, which are associated with DNA damage and increased risk of skin cancer. There have been controversial articles that state that Homosalate is a potential endocrine disruptor and studies in cells suggest it may impact hormones. In addition to direct health concerns following homosalate exposure, the chemical may also enhance the absorption of pesticides in the body ( source ).

However, based on this research study tested on rats, it is said that there is no endocrine disruptor effects on thyroid function and the pubertal development of the tested subjects. Homosalate receives an EWG hazard rating of 4.

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 3% :
Ethylhexyl Salicylate ( also known as Octyl Salicylate or Octisalate ) is an organic compound used as an ingredient in sunscreens and cosmetics to absorb UVB (ultraviolet) rays from the sun. Although the Cosmetics Ingredient Review notes that reproductive and developmental toxicity can occur in relation to Salicylic Acid, one of the two primary components of Ethylhexyl Salicylate, it has determined that the levels used in cosmetic and beauty products would not cause any adverse reaction. Importantly, the FDA has approved Ethylhexyl Salicylate for use in sunscreen with up to 5% concentration. Ethylhexyl Salicylate receives an EWG hazard rating of 4.

Titanium Dioxide 1.49% :

Titanium Dioxide is used in cosmetic and skin care products as a pigment, thickener, and sunscreen additive. Due to its high refractive index, Titanium dioxide has strong UV light absorbing capabilities giving it superior ability to protect the skin from ultraviolet light that can cause sunburn and is also linked to skin cancer. It is a great broad-spectrum SPF ingredient and is widely used in all manner of sun-protection products. Titanium Dioxide receives an EWG hazard score of 1 ~ 3. 

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine :
Bemotrizinol is an oil soluble chemical agent absorbing ultraviolet rays in both UVA and UVB range. It is patented and marketed by Ciba Specialty Chemicals as Tinosorb S. It has an important advantage of being photostable, i.e. it does not degrade and lose effectiveness on exposure to sunlight.

Bemotrizinol appears to be relatively non-toxic and rarely causes skin irritation. However, as with many synthetic chemicals, it is unclear whether Bemotrizinol may produce low-level skin damage and/or systemic effects with long-term use. More research its safety is needed.

Virtually no single sun blocking ingredient can provide complete, broad protection alone, including Bemotrizinol. The good news is that Bemotrizinol seems to be compatible with most other UVB and UVA blocking agents. In fact, Bemotrizinol inhibits the degradation of some insufficiently photostable agents like avobenzone. (Source)

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine receives an EWG hazard score of 1.

Ethylhexyl Triazone :

Ethylhexyl Triazone is an organic compound that absorbs UVB light. It is an outstanding UVB filter with high absorptivity at 314 nm. Hence, only little concentrations are required in cosmetic suncare preparations, to achieve a high Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value. It has excellent photo stability and compatibility with other UV absorbers. Ethylhexyl Triazone receives an EWG hazard score of 1.


To sum it up, I would recommend Troiareuke Acsen UV Protector Essence to
- those who prefer lightweight sunscreen
- those who has oily and combination skin
- those who don't mind using sunscreen with chemical filters

However, honestly speaking, I feel that Troiareuke Acsen UV Protector Essence SPF 50+/PA+++ is suitable for everyone and anyone because of its lightweight texture, coupled with its high sunscreen protection. I simply have so much love for this product and can't stop raving about it!

Leave a comment if you have tried this product and let me know how it goes!

Check out my previous reviews on Troiareuke H+ Cushion and Troiareuke Acsen Pore Control Mask.

Where To Purchase : Shopee
Troiareuke Acsen UV Protector Essence SPF 50+/PA+++  ( Shopee )

Thanks to Joyce from The Cult Culture for sending me this wonderful product in return for an honest review.

Ingredients ( Breakdown ) :