Review : Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser (new formula)





The cleanser with the original formula have been my holy grail product for the past 4 years to curb my sensitive skin. Its something which I cannot do without. However, several months ago, it came up with a new formula which I was not aware of. I came to know about it after receiving my products ordered direct from USA.
Initially, I just thought it was the packaging change but it turns out that the ingredients have changed as well after I realized my skin have reacted to the new formula badly.

New formula :


Old formula :


Apparently, the whole UltraCalming line have been revamped to "serious" relief for sensitized skin.

Relieve : Soothing anti-inflammatories and botanicals cool and diffuse heat, flushing, redness and burning
Control : Our exclusive "UltraCalming" Complex works beyond the skin's surface to interrupt inflammation triggers
Protect : Antioxidants help replenish skin's protective barrier while combating skin-damaging free radicals.

The whole range consists of its cleanser, relief masque, mist and serum concentrate. It certainly sounds like something for the extra-sensitive skin.

Key Ingredients of this new UltraCalming line :

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15 : Targets neurosensitive skin by reducing painful sensations
Boerhavia Diffusa (Red Hogweed) Root Extract : Targets neurogenic inflammation, restores tissue integrity and soothes to restore skin's normal sensitivity level for immediate and long lasting effects
Avena Sativa (Oat Kernel) Extracts : Natuiral anti-irritant and anti-redness properties
Ginger Extract and Bisabolol : Works synergistically to help reduce redness and irritation

Well, I started on the cleanser with the new formula as I have used up the old one. I thought it should be something even better ( or so, the marketing folks thought so but you and I know better ).
In the end, I experienced something I have never experience before in the past 4 years.

First, I did not quite like the smell, it just reminded me of some musty scent. Then while I am in the cleansing process, I could feel some slight reaction to my face. It stings. Real bad. I was so stunned. I was not expecting something like this, formulated for the sensitive skin. It was just minty hot.
I washed it off immediately. And guess what? My face turned red and flushing hot. It was terrible and I was upset, extremely upset.

I am upset about losing my favourite cleanser. I am upset what the formula have done to my skin. I am upset that I may not be able to find another HG cleanser as good as the old one. I wondered what I should do? I hate new formulas. Why can't the people just stick to something which have been working well in the first place? Why fix it when its not broken in the first place? Urgh. It was just so frustrating.

And so I thought that perhaps I should give it another chance. I relooked back to all the products before using the cleanser, thinking perhaps that the cleanser may not be the culprit, it may perhaps have reacted to something I have used before the cleansing process.

In the meantime, I have also written in to Dermalogica in the States, asking them about the new cleanser formula and about my skin irritation. The folks, while polite and sounded sincere in knowing more about the situation were kinda slow in replying me back and I sort of gave up in the end, after many rounds of to and fro.

The stinging feeling become lesser in the weeks to come and I was glad and thought perhaps my skin have not gotten used to the new cleanser and probably reacted to it in a big way but have since calmed down.

However the stinging feeling suddenly came back one day for no reason at all and it continued once in a blue moon. I get panicky. A good product should not be doing that to my skin. So bye, the product is going to my sister who, despite with more sensitive skin than mine, has no problem with it. Go figure!

You can check out the list of ingredients in Cosdna - new and old formulaes.

Where To Purchase : 

2 comments

Anonymous said...

You have the ingredients backwards.
The new formula has the parabens removed, and the third ingredient on the list is bisabolol.
Your label pictures are switched.

Agnes said...

Hi, thanks so much for correcting me. I have since amend the information. Gosh! Apologies.