Product Description
The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen is a broad spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen that provides UVA and UVB protection from the sun’s harmful rays through chemical sunscreen filters. The moisturizing, silky formula contains an 8% hydration trio of Polyglutamic Acid, Glycerin and Squalane. It locks in moisture for a smooth dewy finish. Apply under makeup for dewy, protected skin primed for better makeup application. Non pilling and suitable for all skin types and tones.
What it includes:
- Broad spectrum SPF 30 UVA & UVB protection to help protect skin against the effects of sun damage. - 8% Hydration trio of Polyglutamic Acid, Glycerin and Squalane helps lock in moisture for a smooth, dewy finish.
I purchased The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen from Sephora last year and have been trying to finish it this year. Unfortunately, my experience with this sunscreen has been far from ideal and quite different from what I expected based on the product description and Sephora reviews.
This was especially disappointing because products from The Inkey List have generally worked well for me. I have previously emptied The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid Serum, The Inkey List Omega Water Cream and The Inkey List Peptide Volumizing Hair Treatment, so I was expecting to have a similarly positive experience with this sunscreen.
Packaging, Scent and Texture
The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen comes in a 50ml tube, making it fairly straightforward and convenient to use.
It has a distinct and rather strong sunscreen scent that lingers on my face throughout the day. While I don't find the scent unpleasant, I personally prefer sunscreens with a lighter and less noticeable scent.
The sunscreen also feels relatively heavy upon application. Interestingly, it initially settles into a more matte finish, which made me think it might work better for my combination skin than expected. Unfortunately, this finish does not last.
By around midday, the sunscreen turns noticeably greasy and shiny on my skin. Instead of the fresh, healthy-looking glow I would expect from a dewy sunscreen, it becomes increasingly oily as the day goes on.
How To Use :
Shake before use. Only use in your morning skincare routine.
On cleansed skin, apply liberally to face and neck.
Apply after moisturiser and 15 minutes before sun exposure.
Reapply frequently particularly if perspiring, swimming or towelling.
Protect this product from excessive heat and direct sunlight.
Performance and Ingredients
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| This is the packaging from Sephora Singapore which differs from Cult Beauty. |
Unfortunately, The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen did not work well for me as a facial sunscreen because of its heavy and increasingly greasy finish.
As someone with combination skin, I already experience some shine around my T-zone, especially in Singapore's hot and humid weather. Unfortunately, this sunscreen seems to accentuate the shine rather than leaving my skin with a comfortable, wearable dewy finish.
The greasiness becomes particularly noticeable by midday. I tried tissue-dabbing my face to remove some of the excess shine, but it did little to help. I also tried setting it with loose powder, which usually works well for me when I want to tone down sunscreen shine, but even that was not enough with this sunscreen.
The shine seems to sit on top of my skin and remains throughout the day, making the finish much oilier than I would personally prefer. This is probably the biggest drawback for me when using it on my face.
Since I prefer to finish the products I purchase rather than leave them unused, I also tried using it on my arms and neck instead. However, I found that it leaves a persistent sticky feeling on the skin that does not seem to go away throughout the day. This made it difficult for me to find a comfortable way to use up the product.
In terms of ingredients, The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen contains 4 UV filters....
Octocrylene : It protects the skin against short UVA and long UVB rays, however from this research study, Octocrylene appears to be a strong allergen leading to contact dermatitis in children and mostly photoallergic contact dermatitis in adults with an often-associated history of photoallergy from ketoprofen.
Octyl Salicylate : Ethylhexyl Salicylate ( also known as Ethylhexyl Salicylate or Octisalate ) is an organic compound used as an ingredient in sunscreens and cosmetics to absorb UVB (ultraviolet) rays from the sun. Although the Cosmetics Ingredient Review notes that reproductive and developmental toxicity can occur in relation to Salicylic Acid, one of the two primary components of Ethylhexyl Salicylate, it has determined that the levels used in cosmetic and beauty products would not cause any adverse reaction. Importantly, the FDA has approved Ethylhexyl Salicylate for use in sunscreen with up to 5% concentration. Ethylhexyl Salicylate receives an EWG hazard rating of 4.
Avobenzone : Also known as Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, it appears to be relatively non-toxic and non-irritating to the skin. However, because it is often used in conjunction with photo-stabilizers, there is a greater risk for skin irritation and low-level toxicity. Furthermore, some studies have demonstrated it to be absorbed by the body and secreted into urine, and is therefore not recommended to use on children or pregnant women
However tests have revealed Avobenzone’s tendency to significantly degrade in light over time, lessening its sun protection capabilities. For this reason, most sunscreens containing the ingredient also include photo-stabilizing ingredients like octocrylene.
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid : An organic compound used in sunscreens and other cosmetic and beauty products with a sunscreen or SPF component because of its ability to block UVB rays. It is known in the United States as Ensuizole, according to Wikipedia. Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid has the ability to block UVB rays, but does not protect against long range UVA rays; because of this, it is often paired with other ingredients, including avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or Tinosorb. Its potency and protective qualities do not degrade in sun exposure, and it is possible that is also partly decreases the degradation of other UVB blocker ingredients in sunscreens. Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid also has the ability to convert incident ultraviolet radiation into less damaging infrared radiation, or heat. It has a light, non-greasy finish
For the uninitiated,
UVA - Long wave ultraviolet A (UVA) rays penetrate deep into the dermis, the skin's thickest layer and causes premature skin aging, wrinkling and dark spots.
UVB - Short wave ultraviolet B (UVB) rays burn the superficial layers of the skin and is the main cause of sunburn and skin cancer.
PA - More + signs mean longer protection against UVA
SPF - Higher numbers mean longer protection against UVB
Water (Aqua / Eau), Octocrylene, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Triheptanoin, Saccharomyces Ferment, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Caprylate, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Squalane, Hectorite, Lauroyl Lysine, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Dimethiconol, Polysorbate 60, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Oryza Sativa (Purple Rice) Hull Extract, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglutamic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Camellia Sinensis (Purple Tea) Leaf Extract, Ipomoea Batatas (Purple Sweet Potato) Root Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Saccharomyces Lysate.
Conclusion
To conclude, The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen was not a sunscreen that worked well for me. While I generally enjoy products from The Inkey List, this sunscreen's heavier texture, strong scent and increasingly greasy finish made it difficult for me to enjoy using it on my combination skin.
Even when I switched to using it on my arms and neck, the lingering stickiness was an issue.
Curious about my last 2 emptied sunscreens? Here they are - Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ and Hyaah Perfect Layering Sun Lotion SPF50 PA++++
The Inkey List also has a full page on SPF which you can read here.
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