Rule 1: Understand common terminology.
Oil-free.
On the Web site, Real Self, dermatologist Jeannette Graf, M.D., explains that ”oil-free” originally described products that contained no industrial mineral oil. Long ago, mineral oil was “extremely thick, impure and clogging,” she writes. However, industrial oils are no longer used in skincare and cosmetics. Today, the term means that a product isn’t oil-based, making them ideal for oily or acne-prone skin, dermatologist Diane V. Duvall, M.D., tells Fine Living Network.
Noncomedogenic.
This means that ingredients have been tested and don’t appear to clog pores, according to Dr. Duvall.
Hypoallergenic.
Most people assume that a “hypoallergenic” product won’t cause an allergic reaction and is better for sensitive skin. Though it does mean that these ingredients have a lower chance of causing allergic reactions than others, everyone won’t react to an ingredient in the same way.
Alcohol-free.
These products don’t contain ethyl alcohol (also known as SD Alcohol), an ingredient that’s typically too harsh and drying on the skin. However, alcohol-free products can still contain fatty alcohols, which are actually beneficial to the skin.
Dermatologist-recommended (or dermatologist-tested).
Any product can make this claim — even if one dermatologist has tried the product or used it on a single patient. Thus, these labels don’t mean that the product is recommended by all dermatologists to treat all patients.
Natural.
No federal guidelines dictate exactly what “natural” means or what percent of the ingredients must come from natural sources. Also, natural ingredients aren’t inherently superior to synthetic ingredients. Natural products can also cause allergic reactions or irritate the skin. Common irritating culprits include rosemary, chamomile, mint and lemon, according to Allure. Natural products can contain synthetic ingredients, too.
Organic.
In theory, this label means that ingredients have been grown organically, without the use of pesticides or chemical processing. But, as is the case with natural products, there are no standards for defining “organic” and the term isn’t controlled by the government. Essentially, skincare companies can use the term as they please.
Rule 2: Know the different types of ingredients.
Humectants bring moisture to skin’s upper layers. Examples include glycerin, urea, panthenol and ceramides.
Emollients make skin feel smoother, filling in cracks or rough spots caused by dryness or irritation. Popular emollients are oils from plants and fruits, like grapes, avocados, almonds, coconuts and sunflowers. Some alcohols (like cetyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol) are also emollients.
Occlusives create a layer of “film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping,” writes Celeste Hilling for the Web site, Skin Health TODAY. But they can make skin cells clump together, clog pores and cause acne. Common occlusives include paraffin, mineral oil, cetyl palmitate and dimethicone.
Surfactants promote lather and foaming action in cleansers. They also make creams easier to apply. Examples include ammonium laurel sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine and ingredients ending in “stearates.”
Botanicals are derived from plants and/or trees. Examples include aloe vera and tea tree extract.
Vitamins protect against free radicals, sun damage, moisture loss and environmental threats and encourage healthy cell renewal, writes Anita Shannon in New Life Journal. Vitamins can be listed under different names on product labels: Vitamin A is retinol; vitamin C is ascorbic acid; and vitamin E is tocopherol.
Acids slough off dead, dry skin to reveal a fresh, smooth complexion. These include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic or lactic acids, and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid.
Rule 3: Identify (and understand) active ingredients.
When choosing your product, look for active ingredients that are known for effectively treating your particular concern. This way you avoid the marketing hype and let the active ingredients speak for themselves.
Rule 4: Pay attention to the order of ingredients.
Some companies might highlight certain natural ingredients on the front of the product, but the ingredients label can tell a different story. In reality, these products might contain a negligible amount of the ingredient. So focusing on the order of ingredients is key to knowing if you’re getting an effective product.
The general rule of thumb is that ingredients that are present in high concentrations will be listed at the beginning of the label. Because many products are water-based, water is often the first ingredient, and may be followed by oils like mineral oil or petrolatum. Ingredients present in lower concentrations are usually included toward the end of the list.
However, there are several exceptions to the rule:
If one of the ingredients is classified as a drug, then the drug is listed prior to all other ingredients regardless of its concentration,” notes G. Todorov, Ph.D., of Smart Skin Care.
Fragrances, dyes and colors are often the last ingredients listed, no matter what concentrations are present.
Ingredients below 1 percent can be listed in any order, but they must be listed after ingredients that are at or above 1 percent.
Keep in mind that active ingredients don’t have to be listed toward the top of the list. Some ingredients are effective at 1 to 2 percent, such as salicylic acid, while other ingredients, like vitamin C, are potent at 10 to 15 percent concentrations or higher.
Rule 5: Watch for possible irritants.
You might want to stay away from these ingredients, especially if you have sensitive skin:
Sulfates.
Like surfactants, sulfates allow shampoos and cleansers to foam up and remove oil. Sodium lauryl sulfate is a common ingredient, which can exacerbate dryness and irritation.
Parabens.
These commonly used synthetic preservatives attack bacteria, mold or other microbes that can spoil a product. Most people won’t have an adverse reaction to parabens. But, if you’d like to avoid these preservatives, look for the following on the label: Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben and Butylparaben.
Artificial colors and fragrances.
These ingredients have no benefit for your skin, and they can lead to sensitivity, irritation and breakouts. To avoid colors, look for FD&C or D&C on the label. Smart Skin Care lists the following as an example: FD&C Red No. 6.
A note on sunscreen
Since sunscreen is key to maintaining younger-looking, healthy skin, it’s important you’re grabbing the right bottle. Here’s how to be sure:
SPF (sun protection factor). Not sure what SPF to get? Multiply the SPF by how many minutes it takes your unprotected skin to burn. This number tells you how many minutes you can stay in the sun before burning. Do you usually burn in 10 minutes? SPF 15 would keep you from burning for 150 minutes and SPF 30 for 300 minutes.
Note, though, that SPF ratings only describe protection from UVB rays (linked to sunburn and skin cancer), not UVA rays (linked to premature aging and some skin cancers). SPF 15 blocks out about 93 percent of UVB rays, and SPF 30 blocks out approximately 97 percent. SPF 15 is OK for everyday wear, but choose a higher SPF when you’ll be outdoors for long periods of time.
Broad-spectrum protection. Opt for broad-spectrum sunscreens, which protect against UVA and UVB rays. Make sure the label lists ingredients like oxybenzone, octyl salicylate, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or avobenzone (Parsol 1789). Avobenzone can cause irritation, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Beauty Ingredients To Be Careful About
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Women’s Environmental Network (WEN) is launching Careful Beauty to give consumers the information they need to choose cosmetics they can trust.
However, the brands quoted are not based in Singapore, hence this is a write-up on the ingredients which they deemed as harmful.
“While beauty products are designed to make us look and feel better about ourselves the majority of modern cosmetics are complex mixtures of industrially produced synthetic chemicals,” says Laureen Benton, Health Officer at WEN. “The problem is that some of these chemicals are bio-accumulative. This means that small amounts absorbed when we wash our hair, paint our nails or spray on deodorant don’t go away and gradually build up to create a chemical cocktail in our bodies. To prevent this we need to choose products which avoid those potentially harmful ingredients. And that’s what Careful Beauty helps us to do.”
Free from synthetic preservatives - parabens
Synthetic preservatives are those ingredients of an unnatural source or origin used as a preservative system in products. Due to the fact that parabens are one of the most widely used preservatives they are the primary exclusion on the list. Formaldehyde can be found as a preservative in various cosmetics, soap, nail hardeners and varnish. Ingesting formaldehyde can cause internal bleeding, severe abdominal pain, coma and death. Formaldehyde is a proven neurotoxin, genotoxin, carcinogen and skin irritant. It is involved in DNA damage and inhibits its repair and in conjunction with other chemical ingredients can produce mutagenic and carcinogenic effects. Preservatives are the second most common cause of allergic and irritant reactions to cosmetics.
Free from synthetic fragrances - phthalates
Phthalates are used as a plasticiser and a solvent in cosmetics. They may be listed as dibutyl, dithylhexyl, DEHP, DBP. Some phthalates may not appear on a label as they are components of ‘fragrances’, ‘parfum’, ‘perfume’ and other synthetic fragrances. Research strongly demonstrates that DEHP is linked to adverse affects to male and female reproductive systems and the EU has banned the use of some phthalates in PVC toys as well as listing it as a ‘substance of very high concern.’ Phthalates can be found in cosmetics such as nail varnishes, deodorants, fragrances, hair gels and sprays, hand and body lotions.
Free from bleaching agents
Bleaching agents, such as hydroquinone and mercury, are added to skincare products to help lighten skin. Although banned in the EU they are still manufactured in Asia and Africa. These bleaching chemicals are highly toxic – hydroquinone can cause brown patches on skin and is an irritant, mercury can cause serious poisoning as well as cancer.
Free from chemically manufactured / synthetic made / nature identical ingredients
Nature identical ingredients are produced synthetically or processed but are chemically identical to substances that are found in nature, e.g.silicones, paraffin and other fossil fuel-derived products. See petrochemicals below.
Free from detergents
Detergents are alternatives to soap and are derived from petroleum based products. Some commonly used detergents are Ethoxylated Alcohols (EA) including PEG, SLS - Sodium Lauryl Sulphate and Amines and Derivatives (DEA etc.). Many used for their foaming action in shampoo, conditioners, facial cleansers, hair dyes, lotions, soaps, baby shampoo, baby wipes, shaving cream and acne treatment. Detergents can dry skin and hair, cause irritations to eyes and skin, and can react with impurities and nitrate preservatives, some of which may cause cancer. DEA causes liver and kidney tumours, can damage testicles and reduce sperm activity. Research demonstrates a strong relationship to toxicity to kidneys and nervous system.
Free from GM ingredients
Genetically modified organisms are highly contested ingredients on a global scale. Consumer concerns have caused European companies to work at removing GM ingredients from their products, however many US companies maintain there is not enough evidence of harm from GMOs in cosmetics.
Free from lanolin
A natural emulsifier and emollient, lanolin is used extensively in cosmetics. Lanolin is found in moisturisers, especially those for lips. It is found in shampoo, ointments, face washes and creams, lip balms, hand creams, cold creams and face powders. Lanolin can be an irritant and can cause chapping of the lips. If the cosmetic product does not use certified organic lanolin then there is a risk of exposure to traces of DDT, dieldrin, lindane and other neurotoxic pesticides.
Free from nanoparticles
Nanoparticles, such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, are used in cosmetics and as UV filters in sun creams. It has shown to be possible for nanoparticles to enter the bloodstream and cross the blood-brain barrier, thus entering the brain itself. Fullerenes are another example of nanoparticles used in anti-aging products. Research associated with the health affects of fullerenes and titanium dioxide indicate that certain nanoparticles may be genotoxic and photogenotoxic.
Free from petrochemicals
Petrol based products, such as petroleum, mineral oil, propylene glycol, isopropyl alcohol, paraffin, petroleum and petroleum by-products are used as penetration enhancers, lubricants and emollients in such products as cold creams, lipsticks, mascaras, baby creams, moisturising creams, shaving creams, hair conditioners, makeup removers to name a few. Petroleum based products can irritate and sensitise skin, may compromise skin’s own moisturising system as well as contain harmful impurities.
Free from retinol
Retinol, in its many forms, tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene and retinyl is are used in moisturizers and night creams with the suggestion of offering anti-ageing effects. Predominantly found in anti-ageing skin creams and moisturisers as well as psoriasis and acne care. When exposed to large doses of retinol during pregnancy research shows that it may harm the development of the embryo. Side effects associated with topical tretinoin are skin irritation, dryness, peeling and sun sensitivity and with persistent use, skin damage and accelerate ageing. Adapalene and tazarotene both indicate similar side effects from usage, along with redness, burning sensation and rash.
Free from synthetic colours
Crude oil, coal tar and mineral derived dyes and lakes may contain carcinogenic arsenic and lead. These ingredients are found in products such as lip glosses, children’s toothpaste and hair colours. Some synthetic colours have been linked to childhood hyperactivity disorders as well as cancers.
Source : Careful Beauty
Read more on facts about cosmetics in Wen
However, the brands quoted are not based in Singapore, hence this is a write-up on the ingredients which they deemed as harmful.
“While beauty products are designed to make us look and feel better about ourselves the majority of modern cosmetics are complex mixtures of industrially produced synthetic chemicals,” says Laureen Benton, Health Officer at WEN. “The problem is that some of these chemicals are bio-accumulative. This means that small amounts absorbed when we wash our hair, paint our nails or spray on deodorant don’t go away and gradually build up to create a chemical cocktail in our bodies. To prevent this we need to choose products which avoid those potentially harmful ingredients. And that’s what Careful Beauty helps us to do.”
Free from synthetic preservatives - parabens
Synthetic preservatives are those ingredients of an unnatural source or origin used as a preservative system in products. Due to the fact that parabens are one of the most widely used preservatives they are the primary exclusion on the list. Formaldehyde can be found as a preservative in various cosmetics, soap, nail hardeners and varnish. Ingesting formaldehyde can cause internal bleeding, severe abdominal pain, coma and death. Formaldehyde is a proven neurotoxin, genotoxin, carcinogen and skin irritant. It is involved in DNA damage and inhibits its repair and in conjunction with other chemical ingredients can produce mutagenic and carcinogenic effects. Preservatives are the second most common cause of allergic and irritant reactions to cosmetics.
Free from synthetic fragrances - phthalates
Phthalates are used as a plasticiser and a solvent in cosmetics. They may be listed as dibutyl, dithylhexyl, DEHP, DBP. Some phthalates may not appear on a label as they are components of ‘fragrances’, ‘parfum’, ‘perfume’ and other synthetic fragrances. Research strongly demonstrates that DEHP is linked to adverse affects to male and female reproductive systems and the EU has banned the use of some phthalates in PVC toys as well as listing it as a ‘substance of very high concern.’ Phthalates can be found in cosmetics such as nail varnishes, deodorants, fragrances, hair gels and sprays, hand and body lotions.
Free from bleaching agents
Bleaching agents, such as hydroquinone and mercury, are added to skincare products to help lighten skin. Although banned in the EU they are still manufactured in Asia and Africa. These bleaching chemicals are highly toxic – hydroquinone can cause brown patches on skin and is an irritant, mercury can cause serious poisoning as well as cancer.
Free from chemically manufactured / synthetic made / nature identical ingredients
Nature identical ingredients are produced synthetically or processed but are chemically identical to substances that are found in nature, e.g.silicones, paraffin and other fossil fuel-derived products. See petrochemicals below.
Free from detergents
Detergents are alternatives to soap and are derived from petroleum based products. Some commonly used detergents are Ethoxylated Alcohols (EA) including PEG, SLS - Sodium Lauryl Sulphate and Amines and Derivatives (DEA etc.). Many used for their foaming action in shampoo, conditioners, facial cleansers, hair dyes, lotions, soaps, baby shampoo, baby wipes, shaving cream and acne treatment. Detergents can dry skin and hair, cause irritations to eyes and skin, and can react with impurities and nitrate preservatives, some of which may cause cancer. DEA causes liver and kidney tumours, can damage testicles and reduce sperm activity. Research demonstrates a strong relationship to toxicity to kidneys and nervous system.
Free from GM ingredients
Genetically modified organisms are highly contested ingredients on a global scale. Consumer concerns have caused European companies to work at removing GM ingredients from their products, however many US companies maintain there is not enough evidence of harm from GMOs in cosmetics.
Free from lanolin
A natural emulsifier and emollient, lanolin is used extensively in cosmetics. Lanolin is found in moisturisers, especially those for lips. It is found in shampoo, ointments, face washes and creams, lip balms, hand creams, cold creams and face powders. Lanolin can be an irritant and can cause chapping of the lips. If the cosmetic product does not use certified organic lanolin then there is a risk of exposure to traces of DDT, dieldrin, lindane and other neurotoxic pesticides.
Free from nanoparticles
Nanoparticles, such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, are used in cosmetics and as UV filters in sun creams. It has shown to be possible for nanoparticles to enter the bloodstream and cross the blood-brain barrier, thus entering the brain itself. Fullerenes are another example of nanoparticles used in anti-aging products. Research associated with the health affects of fullerenes and titanium dioxide indicate that certain nanoparticles may be genotoxic and photogenotoxic.
Free from petrochemicals
Petrol based products, such as petroleum, mineral oil, propylene glycol, isopropyl alcohol, paraffin, petroleum and petroleum by-products are used as penetration enhancers, lubricants and emollients in such products as cold creams, lipsticks, mascaras, baby creams, moisturising creams, shaving creams, hair conditioners, makeup removers to name a few. Petroleum based products can irritate and sensitise skin, may compromise skin’s own moisturising system as well as contain harmful impurities.
Free from retinol
Retinol, in its many forms, tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene and retinyl is are used in moisturizers and night creams with the suggestion of offering anti-ageing effects. Predominantly found in anti-ageing skin creams and moisturisers as well as psoriasis and acne care. When exposed to large doses of retinol during pregnancy research shows that it may harm the development of the embryo. Side effects associated with topical tretinoin are skin irritation, dryness, peeling and sun sensitivity and with persistent use, skin damage and accelerate ageing. Adapalene and tazarotene both indicate similar side effects from usage, along with redness, burning sensation and rash.
Free from synthetic colours
Crude oil, coal tar and mineral derived dyes and lakes may contain carcinogenic arsenic and lead. These ingredients are found in products such as lip glosses, children’s toothpaste and hair colours. Some synthetic colours have been linked to childhood hyperactivity disorders as well as cancers.
Source : Careful Beauty
Read more on facts about cosmetics in Wen
Review on Skin Food White Chocolate Firming Mask Sheet
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Product Description :
Infused with tasty white chocolate which helps to contour the face and increase skin’s elasticity, with prolonged use, it will gradually lead to the impression of slimmer and more defined features.
I bought 5 sheets of masks in Korea, using it on every alternate day when I came back.
The cut out area does not really fit my features as its abit too big on the eyes, nose and lips area.
The chocolate scent smells heavenly and skin feels smooth after each use.
There is a slight firming effect during the 20mins of usage when layered on the face but I see no difference after I removed it off.
I will stock up more if I cannot find better firming masks.
Retailing at $5 per sheet.
Review on Kose Cosmeport Clear Turn Eye Zone Mask Q10
Featured in "Nu Ren Wo Zui Da", KOSE Clear Turn Eye Zone Mask Q10 is a refreshing day/night face mask soaked with beauty liquid designed specifically for the under eye areas to repair elasticity and moisture loss for a more youthful, brighter, rejuvenated look.
The masks have added coenzyme Q10 and glycerine to help add and maintain the natural moisture of your skin while boosting the strength for your skin to fight the signs of aging. With just 10 minutes of consistent use, your skin will begin to look visibly softer and younger. Made with 100% cotton.
Since it was made in Japan and recommended by the famous TV program, I was filled with high expectations of it. However, I was appalled that there were alcohol in it. In fact, the fragrance of the mask smelt of alcohol which I believe will dry up the area.
The eye mask dries up pretty quickly too, within 20min which may largely be attributed to the alcohol.
My under eye area does not feel moisturised and my slight fine lines were still there, after using the box of 5 masks within a week. It feels sticky after removing it so I need to cleanse the area usually after each treatment.
I will not be getting this mask again but if you are interested, you can get this box of masks in online stores or in Hong Kong.
Ingredients :
water, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, alcohol, butylene glycol, diglycerin, peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil pca isostearate, acetyl glutamic acid, succinyl atelocollagen, sodium hyaluronate, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, ubiquinone, disodium edta, ppg-8-ceteth-20, squalane, glyceryl tripalmate/palm kernelate/olivate/macadamiate/rapeseedate , triethyl hexanoine, hydroxyethylcellulose, sodium hydroxide, ethylparaben, caramel
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Review on The Body Shop Jojoba Hydrating Toner
Monday, November 23, 2009
Product Description :
Recommended for normal/dry skin, this toning liquid with organic jojoba oil and peach kernel oil soothes and softens whilst preparing skin to better absorb moisturiser.
Jojaba oil is well known for its use as an ideal beauty product which helps to fight wrinkles, smooth frizzy strands, and remove stubborn makeup.
Peach Kernel Oil is known for its fatty acids which can helps to nourish the skin.
In this product, the fragrance is quite heavy for me. I cannot describe the scent but when I first use it, my first impression is that its smelly. Oops.
Even though its recommended for normal and dry skin, however when my skin is peeling at times and I used it on my skin, I feel that it dries up my skin. Hence I avoid it when my skin is in its dehydrated state.
I cannot feel any moisturing factor on my skin and do not feel any difference with or without using it.
I am starting to lose faith in TBS products as it does not seem to deliver its claims on most of the products which I tried before.
Ingredients :
Read more on Jojoba Oil and Peach Kernel Oil
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