Not getting enough zzz’s?
“When you’re sleep-deprived, blood flow slows, leading to dark circles. Plus, your eyes and surrounding skin may get dry and irritated,” says David Bank, M.D., a dermatologist in Mount Kisco, New York. To the rescue: Lactic acid is a skin-soothing anti-inflammatory, so soak a cloth in cold milk and place over lids.
Had one too many?
Alcohol’s dehydrating effects can leave eyes dry and itchy—and that’s not the worst of it. If you eat salty foods and drink too much (it’s tough to resist those pretzels with that cold beer!), you are probably going to become bloated, which means your eyes will also look puffy the morning after. To jump-start the rehydration process from the inside out, drink plenty of water, then, as soon as you get home, remove eye makeup and apply a moisturizing eye cream.
Clean sweep
The skin around eyes is extra thin, so it needs more TLC. Erase the day with a gentle Eye Makeup Remover
Puffy bags
How to fix it: "Cold compresses and caffeine ease swelling quickly," says David Bank, M.D., a dermatologist in Mount Kisco, New York. Place chilled tea bags or cucumber slices over lids for two minutes, or pop your eye cream in the fridge between applications.
How to hide it: Using a medium foundation brush (flat bristles make for easy blending), apply a thin layer of matte liquid concealer on bags, in a shade that matches the skin on your cheeks, says Nick Barose, a makeup artist in New York City. Then sweep on sheer loose powder to dull shine.
Dry skin
How to fix it: "Over time, your skin's top layer retains less moisture," Dr. Bank says. To restore youthful suppleness, reach for products with lipids or humectants (including hyaluronic acid and glycerin).
How to hide it: Use a hydrating foundation or tinted moisturizer to head off cakeyness, a problem for parched skin. Pat on color (don't rub) with your fingertip to avoid exacerbating flakes. When touching up face makeup, go light on powder, which can suck up essential moisture.
Fine lines
How to fix it: Smooth a nightly retinol treatment directly onto crow's-feet. "Skin around eyes is so thin that even a slight boost of collagen can make a big difference," says Debra Jaliman, M.D., assistant professor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai School of Medicine in NYC.
How to hide it: Prep skin with a silicone-based primer to prevent makeup from creasing. Sunscreen is key to warding off new wrinkles, so opt for makeup with SPF.
Dark circles
How to fix it: If circles move when you pull skin taut, excess melanin may be to blame. Fade them with hydroquinone. Shadows don't budge when pulled? Plump skin with moisturizer to mask darkness temporarily.
How to hide it: Choose a concealer with built-in brighteners in a shade that's one tone lighter than your natural coloring (such as Bobbi Brown Tinted Eye Brightener, $38). Apply over dark areas only, blending tint toward the inner corner of each eye, to lighten up lingering shadows
OUTER CORNERS
Eye sight : Crow's-feet. Repetitive movements of muscles from smiling and squinting cause this area to crease. Also, the sun's UV rays break down skin-plumping collagen.
Eye solution : Botox shots are the big guns for relaxing the muscles that lead to lines. But an eye cream with retinol (such as Roc Retinol Correxion Eye Cream, $20) helps smooth skin while you sleep. Apply a thin layer to bare skin, then gently roll your finger from side to side (don't rub or pull) to help cream soak in.
LIDS
Eye sight : Dry, sometimes flaky skin. "Lids have practically no oil glands," says Jeannette Graf, M.D., a dermatologist and author of Stop Aging, Start Living (Crown). Plus removing makeup with face wash can strip lids of the little moisture they have.
Eye solution : Use a separate oil-based or creamy eye makeup remover. At night, before applying eye cream around eyes, gently rub a damp washcloth over dry skin; sloughing first will help cream penetrate.
UNDEREYES
Eye sight : Bags and dark circles. Face lotions may "contain a high percentage of water-and because under-eye skin has few oil glands, it sucks up that water and swells," Dr. Graf says. Issue two: Skin gets thinner over time, so blood vessels (and shadows) are more visible.
Eye solution : Choose an eye cream that doesn't list water as the first ingredient. If necessary, rest a chilled washcloth over the area for five minutes to reduce swelling and contract blood vessels. To camouflage circles, dab on cream concealer with a brush.
INNER CORNERS
Eye sight : Discoloration. The large veins that run parallel to the upper nose cause fair skin to look bluish and dark skin, gray.
Eye solution : Extend concealer to the inner corner of each eye. A yellow-based version counteracts blue tones; an orange-based one neutralizes gray, says Katie Pellegrino, a makeup artist in New York City. Tap a highlighter (such as Benefit Miss Popularity, $24) or a flesh-toned, shimmery cream shadow on top to brighten.
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