Rusting iron and the browning flesh of an avocado both have something in common with the discoloration, wrinkles and fine lines of our aging skin: oxidation. Antioxidants counter this natural aging process, and that’s why they have been taking top billing in skin care.
How antioxidants work
Oxidation is largely caused by the creation of free radicals at the cellular level when skin is exposed to ultraviolet light. Antioxidants are touted to reduce oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals—unstable atoms that have an unpaired electron in their outermost shell, almost like a knife without a sheath. The antioxidants act to sheathe the knife, binding with the unstable electron and stopping it from attacking collagen strands and other cells of the skin’s architecture.
Antioxidants in beauty products: pros and cons
Antioxidants refer to compounds such as vitamins C and E, coenzyme Q10, idebenone, zinc, copper and beta carotene. Beauty companies are harnessing these, as well as the antioxidants from an increasing range of botanicals such as green tea, pomegranates, coffee berries, grape seeds, olives, mushrooms and more.
More and more scientific studies are proving their effectiveness, not only in helping to reduce wrinkles and aging but also reducing inflammation, such as in rosacea, or even helping prevent skin cancer.
Three questions about antioxidants and skin care
At issue are three different criteria: how to keep antioxidants stable in product formulas; how well antioxidants are actually absorbed into the skin; and what concentrations are necessary to make them effective while still being non-irritating. Here’s the latest on those issues:
Stability: Some skincare companies are solving the problem of rapid antioxidant breakdown, especially upon exposure to light, by packaging lotions, creams and serums in dark brown, blue or opaque bottles and in metal tubes. Other companies are including powdered vitamin C in a separate package; you mix it into the moisturizer at the time of use. A common plant compound called ferulic acid is also emerging as an effective stabilizer, based on new scientific research.
Absorption: Antioxidants that are taken by mouth either in food or supplements are circulated through the body and absorbed into cells. But when it comes to applying them to the skin, the concern has been that they would just sit on top of it, where they would soon be washed or rubbed off instead of being absorbed into the skin cells where their protective action could be most effective.
Many studies and reviews have appeared in medical journals confirming the ability of antioxidants to be absorbed into skin cells.
Concentration: How much is enough to be effective? Some products “just have a sprinkle,” levels unlikely to be effective—yet concentrations that are too high run the risk of provoking skin irritation.
Source : Best Health Magazine
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